원정 개요

BC east of Island Peak's point 5357 on National Geographic map.

Badiola and Valles made bivouac at 7900m and on 7th Oct as planned during climb; no C5 because with no Sherpas. Spanish members had worked hard and some not well acclimatized. 3000m rope fixed from C1 to C4 up difficult route. C2, C3 and C4 were snow caves because of strong winds; lots of snow ridge with windslabs, which they carefully avoided. Reached top at 11:00 am in clear day in strong wind (which caused Soviets on Lhotse S Face to freeze feet during biv without tent). Spanish bivouacked in small tent, which was blown into Tibet with sleeping bags, etc.; only 1 pole left of biv. Summiters went down to C4 in snow cave; Valles no frostbite, but Badiola slightly frostbitten toes. Last 5m to top 90 degrees ice and very technical climbing and necessary to rapell down this section; top had big cornices.

Macia turned back at 7500m on 6th Oct because not well acclimatized. Had been climbing on 6th with Valles and Badiola. She was only other member to go above C4.