원정 개요

BC at 50m above USSR BC on west side of Lhotse Glacier
C2 at series of bivouacs
High point at 2 points on South Face.

1st attempt of couloir and to left; stopped at 7600m; 2nd went right and much wind so extreme right to Kukuczka C5. Had wanted to acclimatize on Lhotse Shar to 6800m once or twice but Spaniards did not agree (why don't understand) so climbed on Polish route but one day big wind slab came down when were at 6200m. Were well acclimatized when started up own route (Polish route very dangerous from avalanche).

1st attempt on own route began on 6 Oct from BC; reached 5800m for 1st biv (too dangerous to go up couloir in day time so slept here all day - had arrived at 9:00 am). 8:00 pm of 6th started up again and climbed couloir all night in good moonlight and stopped at top of gully at 8:00 am of 7th. This place very dangerous because with sunshine stone fall began - were hit by stones but not seriouly hurt; pitched tent and stayed one day there before attempting difficult rock and ice, made better places for tent. 8 Oct at 11:00 pm again up (ice made better places for tent). 8th Oct at 11:00 pm again up (ice soft in day so impossible because of difficulty) and arrived at Russian fixed ropes and reached 7600m at 8:00 am where pitched tent 20 minutes below Russian C5. Slept one night at this biv and 10 Oct decided not to use Russian fixed rope since not alpine-style to do so and also winds strong so decided to go down; also now discovered a possible new route to right. Descended to BC on 10th in 5 hours by Russian ropes with plan to abandon route to left. 16th Oct began up again and reached 5800m biv place and 17th to a new 2nd biv at slightly different site on right at 7200m onto face at noon. From here began difficult rock and mixed at "extremely difficulty." 18th climbed long day and surmounted all the difficulties but wind became strong; biv at 7400m at 8:00 pm. 19th wind "terrible" which pushed powdered snow avalanche upwards so went quickly to Kukuczka C5 looking for protection and biv there at 7600m under rock. 20th am stove broken and dangerous to use and wind "impossible" and decided to go down via Kukucza route; started at 12:00 noon and at 6500m at 5:30 pm [biv] in good crevasse. 21st to BC.

Both went to return to face in '91 or '92.