원정 개요

One member did very little climbing: DeMas began developing cerebral edema from the Tibetan village of Tingri on their drive to BC, and it became more acute in ABC. On 22 April, he returned to Tingri accompanied by Fazzi, came back to the mountain and went up to C1 with his teammates when they established C1 on the 26th. But he soon did not feel well, and back in ABC he decided to abandon the climb. He left on 3 May.

The remaining two members, Fazzi and Arrigoni, made a C1.5 on 6 May to acclimatize better on their way to C2, which they pitched the following day. They spent two nights in C2: during the first night, the 7th there was a fierce windstorm which damaged many tents (a Bulgarian in C1.5 had a bicycle in his tent for his intended cycle descent from the summit, but the tent and the bicycle in it were blown completely away).

They stayed one more night a C2 hoping to go directly to the summit from there. But the next morning, Arrigoni decided to stop climbing: she had had a bad night during the windstorm with no sleep, and was too tired to attempt any summit bid.

That left Fazzi to try with just Pemba Dorje. They left C2 at 1:00 am on the 9th, but at 3:00 am, Fazzi gave up at 7400m and they were back in C2 at 3:30 am. They rested in C2, then at 10:00 am began their descent to C1. They were back in ABC the following day.

The attempt on Cho Oyu was now abandoned because of wind, snow and the limited amount of time they had left.

Sherpa:
Pemba Dorje Sherpa, 1/8/70, Kharikhola, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1