원정 개요

Eight members of Iranian team namely Ali Mohammadi, Ali Bayat-Manesh, Bigdeli Nazargholi, Karimi, Kazemi, Maghaddam, Meghdadi and the leader of the expedition Najarian together with Nima Gyalzen, Kailash Tamang, Lakpa Chhiri, Pemba and Ang Tendi Sherpa started their summit push from C4 at 4 am on 29 April. The team reached summit at 3 pm and stayed on summit for about an hour. The summit was a little foggy, windy and a little snow shower. The team descended to C4 at about 8 pm. The team found Mir-Shekari very sick at C4. Najarian contacted expedition Doctor Hamidi and gave medicines, but his condition was not improved. (Mir-Shekari previously had a little headache at C3 and was told not to continue above C3 by the expedition doctor, but he did not listen to him and continued his climb). Mir-Shekari died near C3 in descent on 30 April due to high altitude sickness. The team spent the night at C3. On 1 May all members went down to BC and the dead body was brought down to C2 where Dr. Hamidi and the leader Najarian spent the night. On 2 May the doctor and leader went down to BC. On 5 May the dead body was brought down to BC by Nima, Lakpa, Pemba and two Sherpas of another Iranian expedition. On 6 May the dead body was airlifted from BC to Samagaon; they picked up Najarian and Kazemi [and went] to Jagat where they changed helicopters and flew on to Kathmandu the same day.

Other member high points:

Bayat-Manesh, BC manager, went to C3 on 30 April to help bring down the dead body.

Dr. Hamidi climbed up to C3 on 27 April and next day he went down to C2. Leader Najarian said that according to Iranian climbing regulations, expedition doctors are not permitted to go to summit.

Nadaliyan, the oldest member of the expedition, climbed up to C4 on 28 April with other members and spent the night there. There was no physical problem with him, but he was a bit slow and he decided not to go further up on the grounds that his slow pace may create problems for the climbing team. He went down to C3 with Iman Gurung on 29 April and spent the night there. Next day to C2 and following day to BC.

Oxygen:

Bigdeli Nazargholi, Kazemi and Meghdadi used oxygen from C4. Bigdeli Nazargholi and Meghdadi to summit then to C4; Kazemi from C4 to near the summit and then she did not use.

This is the first summit team of the season on Manaslu.

Sherpas;
Nima Gyalzen, 9/8/85 (25-04-2042), Beding, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2, Manaslu X1
Lakpa Chhiri, 18/04/79 (05-01-2036), Khunde, Khumbu, no 8000ers
Pemba, 28/1/82 (15-10-2038), Lamabagar-1, Dolakha
Kailash Tamang, 13/2/82 (02-11-2038), Kanku-5, Solu, Everest X2
Iman Gurung, 14/3/81 (01-12-2037), Laprak-6, Gorkha, no 8000ers
Ang Tendi Sherpa