원정 개요

BC at Tangnag village in tent
Biv1 at col between Kyashar and Kusum Kanguru
High point on West Ridge.

They arrived at the tiny village of Tangnag, where they pitched their BC, on 13 April, and spent a week trekking in the area. Then from the 20th, when they wanted to start their climb, to 5 May, "We sat in BC waiting for the daily snowfall and rain to stop."

Finally, at midnight of the 5th/6th May, the two Britons went up to the col between Kyashar and Kusum Kanguru and bivouacked there at 5700m.

Their plan was to climb the West Face to the top of the South Buttress onto the West Ridge. On the 7th, they left their bivouac at 5:00 am and traversed onto the West Ridge at 5900m with the idea of bivouacking there. But they were now "wallowing in deep snow [thigh-deep], and we decided with a limited amount of food and the condition of the snow, that we didn't consider climbing 900 meters to reach the summit and returning to base camp in a single push was a viable option," said Bullock. So at 6:00 am they abseiled the buttress and descended all the way to BC, where they arrived at 12:30 pm. Their climb was over.

They had been attempting a route similar to one successfully climbed by a team led by Bruce Normand of England in the autumn 2003.