원정 개요

BC at yak huts Sanshochopo under East Face near small lake
C1 at top of rock pillar, SE Pillar.

Did new route on SE Pillar's face to SE Ridge. Some really difficult steep rock climbing in last pitch on pillar. Before getting onto pillar had to fix 200-300m to traverse pinnacles to save time when proceeding to climb pillar; fixed no rope on pillar. Pinnacles began at 5300m and pillar also began at 5300m. Biv on 25 Oct by 4 members. On 26 Oct all to summit up SE Ridge: one step at start of SE Ridge found old ropes and here joined other people's route (this step in at top a couloir leading to SE Ridge. Started climb on 26th at 8:00 am and on top at 1:40 pm via not very difficult ridge (4 pitches of ice climbing but good snow and ice conditions on 50-60-degree slope and fixed no rope here. Only 2 on summit while other 2 lost time on rock step, were 1 hour behind summiters and stopped ascent at about 6300m. Summiters back in C1 at 4:00 pm and all slept that night at C1. 27th 3 down pillar and Fuetterer stayed in camp and on 28th tried again for summit. Fuetterer reached about 6350m in snow pitches and down to BC same day.