Annapurna Tras los 14 Ochomiles para Chile
Annapurna I · 2011 · 봄 (1) · Chile
원정 개요
There was fresh snowfall almost every day while the team was on the mountain, and snow commonly lay knee-deep. Avalanching also occurred almost daily.
Their route on the North Face was the 1980 German route which led the Germans to the middle summit.
This team made C1 at 4180m, which was very low but safe from the dangerous avalanches. Dell'Orto and Jorquera made C2 at 6370m on 23 April, then were stuck in the camp on the 24th because of a windstorm. On the 25th, they went higher, but when they reached 6720m, Dell'Orto had to give up because of his serious chest infection. (He had actually had the infection when he had started up from BC, but now his coughing was so bad that he could not climb). They descended to C1 that day; on the 26th they were back in BC, and the climb was over.
Lagos had swollen glands in his neck throughout the climbing period. He went as high as C1 three times, but could go no higher.
Dell'Orto left BC on 28 April in a helicopter arranged for themselves by a South Korean expedition. Jorquera and Lagos on the 29th went up to ABC to bring down all the gear the team had left there from higher camps, and they left BC on 1 May to trek for 17 hours to Pokhara to join Dell'Orto, who had been left there by the South Koreans. The three Chileans returned together to Kathmandu by bus on 3 May.
- 내부 원정 ID7036
- 원본 EXPIDANN111101
- 대장Adolfo Dell'Orto
- 루트 (Route)N Face (1980 German rte, left of the rib)
- 최고 도달고도6720m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유질병 (7)
참가자 3명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Adolfo Antonio Dell'Orto Selman | Chile | Leader | - | - | - |
| Andres Jorquera Tapia | Chile | Climber | - | - | - |
| Marcelo Lagos Gonzalez | Chile | Exp Doctor | - | - | - |