원정 개요

The two Russians first climbed Island Peak. They arrived at Chhukung village on 31 March and made it their base. They summited on 3 April and moved directly to Pangboche village on the 4th for their base from which to launch their attack on Ama Dablam.

On the 6th, they went from Pangboche to their ABC at 5100m and next day to C1 at 5500m. There was snow on the mountain, and on the morning of 8 April it was snowing gently; 20 cm. of fresh snow had already fallen.

Now they decided to abandon their climb. Schekoldin "was not a sportsman," Babanov explained, and he found the terrain difficult for him, especially with the heavy pack he had to carry since they had no Sherpas with them.

So instead of continuing towards the summit, they turned down and descended all the way to Pangboche that day. They flew out from Lukla three days later.