원정 개요

BC near Gyazumpa
C1 at small plateau south point 6500m at bottom of its ridges
C2 at point 6500m's on SW Ridge
C3 at icefall above point 6500m
C4 at saddle just N of "U" of Gosum on Schneider map
C5 at flat saddle on SW ridge just east of 7600m peak ridge
High point at SW ridge.

Difficulties began from C2 (between below C2 had fixed ropes), very steep snow and rock and point 6500 and dangerous and all fixed rope C2 and C3. Very strong winds above C3 from Tibet constantly. Above C5 tried to keep to SE Ridge on northern side of ridge to snowfield where ridge got very steep to go up couloir (or perhaps to go up on Tibetan side to another snow couloir). On 13th reached snowfield and spent night in small tent with no ground sheet. Had been unable to see way above. Next day clouds and winds worse and worse and temperature dropped, becoming extremely cold so retreated to C4 and abandoned climb with such terrible weather. Fixed total of 2500m rope, mostly from C2 to C3 and some (200m) from C4 to C5 to cross the ridge.

Route is possible with more time (including better phase of moon affecting weather). Left variant on to Tibetan side is easier than variant to right side.