원정 개요

West Face:

Before the leader and members reached BC on 6 Nov, a team of four Nepalese: Dawa Finjo Lama Bhote, Temba Bhote, Pema Lama Bhote and Chhiring Thinduk Bhote reached BC on 29 October. As told by Dawa Bhote, he and Temba Bhote put up a deposit camp at 5800m on 4 or 5 November and spent the night there. Around 9 November C1 was set up at 5600m, 200m below on the left side of deposit camp by all four Bhotes. They also put up 600m of ropes on the same route same day and slept at C1. Next morning the Bhote team started fixing 200m more ropes on the route. The route was around 70-degrees steep with snow, ice and rocks. With the sunshine, snow on the route started melting and it became difficult to fix ropes on the loose rock face. They reported the conditions to BC and decided to call off the attempt on the West Face route. They removed C1 and descended to BC the same day on 10 November.

SW Ridge:

Sund wrote in his email dated 10 Dec 2010 that the initial plan to climb the West Face had to be canceled due to rock fall and too dangerous a route. Then the team decided to try on SW Ridge, where already an Italian team had started to climb. On 12 November, Dawa and Temba went up to C1 (6100m approx) and also fixed ropes up to 6400m on SW Ridge route. Both spent night at C1. On 14 November Loberant, Rawski, Sund, Tommeras, Pema and Chhiring started from BC for C1. Sund and Rawski turned around to BC from approx 6000m as Sund was not feeling well. Loberant, Tommeras, Pema and Chhiring continued to C1. On 15 November Dawa and Temba climbed together with two Italian climbers and reached 6800m. Dawa said that it was getting late (about 5 pm) and they started descending while the two Italians continued further up. Dawa and Temba met Loberant, Tommeras, Pema and Chhiring at 6500m approx it was already dark and there was no place to put tent. They descended to 6400m approx where they found a suitable place to fix a tent and spent the night there. Loberant and Tommeras decided to give up the climb and the next day all went down to BC.

High point on SW Ridge.
Dawa and Temba - 6800m on 15 Nov.

Fixed rope:
West Face - 1000m
SW Ridge - 1500m

Hired:
Dawa Finjo Lama Bhote, 5/9/88 (20/5/2045), Hungung, Hatiya
Temba Bhote, 5/12/73 (20/8/2030), Hungung, Hatiya-3
Pekma Lama, aka Pema Lama, 14/12/76 (29/8/2033), Hatiya-3
Chhiti Thinduk Bhote, aka Chhiring Thinduk, 25/8/81 (9/5/2038), Hatiya-3