원정 개요

High point on South Face of WSW Ridge.

This mountain in the Langtang Himal has several names. The tourism ministry calls it Dhagpahe with the name Yansa Tsenji in parentheses, which is the name the Japanese knew it by. Some Nepalese trekking maps say it is Dragpoche.

The two-member Japanese team approached it from the west, trekked eastward along the Langtang Khola to Kyanjin Kharka and north to Ryunjshung Kharka. They made their BC on 20 September at 3800m at Ryunjshung Kharka because it was raining when they reched the area. In improved weather on the 25th, they made ABC 1000m higher on moraine at the north end of Yala Tsang Glacier.

But the weather turned, and they retreated to BC on the 26th for two nights, returned to ABC on the 28th, then back to BC in the rain on the 30th.

Finally they began to make some progress. They returned to ABC on 3 October and two days later, on the 5th, they climbed the South Face of the WSW Ridge to 5800m. Here they found a lot of falling rock, loosened by rain that had melted the snow or ice that normally held it in place, and they immediately went back to ABC. The next day they were in BC. They had abandoned the climb.

They did return to ABC on the 8th but only to clear the camp. They left BC on the 9th.

The team had originally planned to climb the mountain by a rib on the South Face, but there were many crevasses on this face and here, too, there was falling rock.