원정 개요

BC at 100 ft lower then US women's site - near yak
C1 at 5760m at higher of normal C1 site
C2A on small hanging glacier
C2B at 6000m top of red tower
C3 at 6300m at traditional site
High point just below huge hanging glacier.

Everything going very well in early days. 9th April all 6 members in 2nd C2 and carried 1st load to C3 beyond mushrooms and all other major hurdles and at foot of 45-degree slope; feeling tremendously optimistic. Eckenfelder and Langley carried the load and fixed an ice step. During their descent from C3 site accident occurred. Eckenfelder while going up had knocked down some rocks which must have cut rope; Eckenfelder in front coming down the Perlon 8 mm: presumably he went round a corner and his weight at a place where ropes was 80% cut caused complete break. No one saw him fall but body seen 500-600 ft below; when a member reached it, head had been completely severed and death must have been instantaneous (at 4:00 pm). Snowing now and all next day and body became covered so team never returned to it, it is 500 ft off of route. On 11th all down from C2 to BC with plan Dickey and Langley would resume climb.

13th Dickey and Langley went from BC to C2 and fixed new ropes around C2 and to C3. 14th to C3. 15th did recce crevasses and fixed ropes but avalanching dangerous and decided to abandon; reached BC after dark. Snowfall continued daily after left BC on 17th.

A body found by UK-US expedition in April 1989 in the couloir between C2 and C3 below the Gap, before start of 1st step - completely exposed, looking very fresh (snow had preserved him?).