원정 개요

Warm - 28 May 80

Reached col between Annapurna II and IV near C2; it is about 7000m where put C4.

Made one camp in direction of Southeast Spur, but those in this team Michalski and Pankiewicz decided that with equipment and difficulties and weather, this route not possible, too much danger of avalanche. Returned after 2 days after having been to 6000m on spur.

Next Kintopp, Laskowski and Michalski tried left across glacier and then up to make C3, on south side of West Ridge. This 1st attempt on West Ridge from South.

Pankiewicz and Grochowski made ascent to Col with some difficult ice; made C4 and next day they tried to go up the ridge but returned because snow, wind and cold; went only about 200m up Ridge and then to C2.

Kintopf and Laskowski tried to go to C4, but just about 100m from tent snow avalanche came and they fell about 400m down (about 700m distance). Both alive but Laskowski knee injured and Kintopf head cut and both mentally confused at first.

So it was clear not possible to try for summit because had to help Kintopf and Laskowski who had to be escorted down and route very dangerous; southern approach to Annapurna II very dangerous.

Another avalanche accident between BC and ABC when Laskowski also fell, this time fell 200-300m to glacier.

Above C1 some big technical difficulties in rocky barrier about 200m high and needed fixed rope.

No climbing with oxygen.


Michalski - 24 March 80

Lodz Himalayan Expedition.
Leave KTM 26 March by road to Pokhara
Hope baggage will meet them at Pokhara by truck 27 or 28 March.
Leave Pokhara about 1 April depending on big truck's arrival at Bhairava.
SE Spur = New route.
Looks very steep and very difficult; last 1000m looks like rock but don't know
what sort of rock it is; also have problem of access to spur so must recce to
find best approach.
5-6 days Pokhara to BC.
Last village Hogo south of Annapurna II (up Madi Khola).
BC at 4500-4800m but location not now known (depends on result of earlier recce).
3 or 4 camps above BC depending on difficulty.
2 Sherpas above BC including sirdar Lhakpa Dorje (1975 SW Face Everest).
Oxygen medical only.