원정 개요

C2 on NW Ridge
Nigh point on NW Ridge.

The expedition approached the mountain by the usual trekking route up the Kali Gandaki River to Marpha, west to Thapa Pass and went to BC directly north of Tukuche.

They got no higher on the mountain than 6215m on 8 October. Aono, Akazawa and Kimura, with Dirga Sing Tamang and Pemba Tshering, left C2 at 6015m at 5:40 am. The weather was fine that day, but they were very slow. Akazawa turned back at 6100m. Aono, Kimura and their two Sherpa gained only 200 vertical meters above C2 at 8:10 am. They now decided that their progress was too slow, so they also turned around and all descended all the way to BC, where Aono and Kimura arrived at 3:45 pm.

The climb was now over. All members were too tired to make another summit bid. They were not young: Kimura was 68 years old and Akazawa was 65. Akazawa was now so weakened by fatigue that during his descent, he used bottled oxygen from C1 to halfway to BC. (His was the team's only use of oxygen).

Their three Sherpas fixed a total of 1450m of rope on the mountain: 50m from BC to C1 in a steep section (30-35 degrees slope), 950m between C1 to C2, and 450m from C2 to their highest point 6215m.

Sherpas:
Dirga Sing Tamang, 26/9/67 (10/6/2024), Chimding, Kerung-5, Solu, Cho Oyu X1
Nima Nuru Sherpa, 6/11/81 (21/7/2038), Tesho, Khumbu, Everest X11, Cho Oyu X2
Pemba Tshering Sherpa, 15/6/43, Thamo, Everest X3, Dhaulagiri I X1, Cho Oyu X2,
Kangchenjunga X1