원정 개요

Some of same members had attempted Tawa in Summer 2008 on a Yakawa Kang permit and said they had been on Purkung Himal.

Tawa is north-northwest of Yakawa Kang.

Five out of the six members of the Tawa Himal expedition including expedition leader Dr. Iga and three Sherpas established their BC at 5600m on 19 October. Members Fujikura, Hattori, Matsushima, Uchida, Ang Kami, Lhakpa and Chhongba Sherpa started their summit bid from BC at 6 am on 21 October towards southeast direction on the snow slope to the pass. From the pass the climbers went up along southwest snow ridge beyond two snow walls. At that point 5800m Uchida got a problem with altitude and went down to BC with Ang Kami. The remaining four members and two Sherpas continued their ascent and reached to the shoulder at 6000m. There, Hattori and Matsushima gave up their climb due to altitude problem and descended to BC. Iga, Fujikura, Ms Lhakpa and Chhongba continued their climb along snow and rock mixed steep wall by using 150 meters of rope and ascenders. They reached the summit at 11 am and stayed on summit for 30 minutes. From the 2.5 square-meter summit they had view of Dhaulagiri, Purkung and Mustang areas. They made a cairn on the summit and descended to BC where they arrived at 2 pm.

Date was heli-lifted to Kathmandu on 17 October from 4400m due to altitude problem.

Climbing route: Between 5600-5800m snow field spanning 1.0 km, 5800-6000m plateau, between 6000-6110m ridge 0.8 km, summit tower 0.15 km.

Weather condition during on the summit day was a fine day with occasional fog.

The altitude of Tawa Himal is 6110m, but the expedition's altimeter indicated as 6070m on the summit.

The peak is located at the end of ridge outgrown from Mt. Yakawa Kang and is north-northeast of Yakawa Kang. The distance between these two peaks is 3.3 km. The peak is not listed in the Ministry's peak list.

The report on the first attempt on Tawa Himal sent by Makoto Hamamura writes in the report that the challenge was the Club's second try, following the first try by 16 members which failed because of the lack of studies and several severe accidents in August 2008. Mr Hamamura was the leader of the first attempt.

Fixed rope: between 6000-6110m (summit tower).

Sherpas:
Ang Kami Sherpa, 21/08/82, Gudel-5, Solukhumbu, Everest X3, 2004/2006/2010,
Lhotse 2008
Lhakpa, 22/08/1983, Khotang-5, Everest, Kangchenjunga
Chhongba 16/12/90, Gudel-5, Solu