원정 개요

Note: This team originally thought they were climbing Pabuk Kang (6244m).

BC at west side of Nanguma Pokhari
ABC south of South Ridge
1st biv south of South Ridge
2nd biv foot of South Ridge.

The team trekked up the Tamur River to Olangchungola and the Yangma Khola, then north past Yangma village to a peak on the Tibetan border and south to Nunguma Pokhari (lake), south-southwest of Pabuk Kang's South Ridge.

(Pabuk Kang, 6244m is also on the border. Macartney-Snape believed its name is actually Yangma Peak, hence his expedition's name. It is unnamed on trekking maps and on HMG's map "Yanma" sheet 2787-04).

The team pitched their BC on 26 October at 5185m near the west side of Nunguma Pokhari, and ABC two days later at 5700m, south of the South Ridge. On the 29th returned to BC.

Now there were several days of snowfall. They went up to ABC on the 30th, but down to BC on the 31st. They ventured up again on 2 November to ABC, and on the 3rd they made their first bivouac at 5850m, south of the South Ridge. They continued their climb the next day with another bivouac at 5900m at the foot of the ridge, a recce up the ridge to 6050m and returned to the second bivouac to sleep.

On 5 November they went for the top. At 4 am all members except Finnigan (who was ill in BC) and Rodgers (who had stayed at BC throughout the climb) left their second bivouac and followed the ridge to a steep rock step at 6100m, which was very technical; Barton and Macartney-Snape managed to turn the step on the left. Above it was perfect classic deep snow. The two were on the summit at 2 pm and descended to a saddle at 6050m at 3:45 pm and climbed a small peak (pt 6128) which the step led to, then rappelled down steep rock to rejoin the others. All were in the high bivouac between 8:00 and 10:00 pm.

The other four members had also reached the saddle. Baldwin and Scott climbed from there to 6150m on the summit ridge at 3:45 pm, too late for them to continue to the top. All four went back to their second bivouac.

Everyone was in BC on the 6th.

Finnigan got no higher than ABC. He was not acclimatizing well and in fact his condition deteriorated.

On the 8th, Finnigan, Macartney-Snape and Scott left BC by helicopter to Kathmandu while the rest of the expedition trekked out.