원정 개요

Approach: Nepalgunj->Surkhet->Juphal by air, Dunai->Dho Tarap->Nundu->Pak->Panklenga

Beierlein, Erkelenz and Klassert left C1 at 5:15 am on 10 Oct. The team reached summit at 14:30 hours. They stayed at the summit for about 30 minutes, then descended to C1 at 19:30 hours where they spent the night. Next day the team went down to BC. Summit day weather was good on ascent, but on descent started light snowfall, in general mostly fine and sunny.

Herrmannspahn left expedition from Dunai on 28 Sept and left Kathmandu on 2 or 3 October.

The route Japanese expedition in 2003 led by Ohnishi climbed was not main peak.

Route: NW Face via north icefall - northwest to steep ice climb up to 60 degrees and then to Col to south. Last 150m loose rocks, no snow.