원정 개요

After C1 down to BC for logistical preparation, 20 Sept to C1 but in the night Mich had serious tooth problem in bad night for all, so on 21 Sept he went down and other 3 made for C2 and sleep there and then down in bad weather (fog and little snow and little wind) to ABC. Mich's tooth infected and he had to leave for treatment; other 3 in ABC 8 days because of bad weather; no movement on mountain by anyone and Italian Lenti group went home. 29th 3 members from ABC to C2; 30th after not good night start for C3 but do not make C3, biv at 7550m near C3 site; others spend night strong wind and very cold. 1st Oct again up in summit bid in crusted snow; at 7800m wind gaining strength and little cold, 1 member not so well, other's toes beginning to freeze, so go down to ABC at night, very tired. After 1 day Stedile decides finished for him and he goes to order yaks while othe 2 go up to clear higher camps. Men tired and experiment with synthetic diet unsuccessful (couldn't keep this food in stomachs).