원정 개요

The four Austrian members left Kathmandu at different times because Fitz and Schmelzenbach first made a trek in the region. They all met at the village of Koto, south-southwest of their mountain, on 6 October and continued together to BC.

They arrived at BC four days after the Dutch led by Dick Lust and pitched all their camps at the same places as the Dutch had put theirs: BC was a little north of the Pangrima Glacier, C1 on another glacier north of Pangrima glacier, C2 on a ridge west of Himlung on a large rock formation which they called "rock island" and C3 on the same "rock island."

The four members and two Sherpas began their summit push from BC on 15 October and slept in C1; they moved to C2 on the 16th, and pitched their C3 on the 17th.

At 3:00 am on 18 October they started up from C3 and climbed with the Dutch falling an hour behind them. The weather was clear with a half moon shining on them, and they climbed in fresh soft deep snow. But it was only Fetz [and Fitz] and Nurbu Tshering who actually reached the summit, where they arrived between 4:30 and 5:00 pm. They were back in C3 at about 11:00 pm-12:00 midnight.

Schmelzenbach ran out of energy on the "rock island" at about 7:00 or 8:00 am, so he and Pemba turned around and went back to C3 at 9:00 am.

Partel got to 7000m at 3:00 pm; by now he was very tired, and he felt that 3:00 pm was too late to go to the top. He was turned around there with the Dutch climbers.

On the 19th all were in C1 and next day in BC. Schmelzenbach's toes had become slightly frostbitten, and their condition was made worse during his descent from C3. He and Fetz left BC on the 21st to fly by helicopter directly to Kathmandu, while Fitz and Partel returned by trekking out. (Fetz developed pneumonia in Kathmandu and was admitted to a clinic for a couple of day's care).