원정 개요

Little north of Pangrima Glacier west of peak
C1 on other glacier north of Pangrima
C2 on a ridge west of mountain rock island
C3 on a ridge west of mountain
High point on NW Ridge.

Two days after the team established BC on 6 October, Van Tilberg went up to 5500m with the intention of going to the site for C1 at 5600m, but he was worried about the job he had just lost and other personal problems, and decided to go home immediately.

The left two members Lommers and Lust. With their two Sherpas, Dawa and Pasang, they left C3 for the top on 18 October at 3:00 am. They reached 7000m on the NW Ridge at 3 pm, one hour's climb from the summit. They had been slow getting there because there was knee-deep snow, and although they were climbing with an Austrian team, the Austrians let the Dutch and their Sherpas do the hard work of breaking trail. It was now too late to continue to the top, and the two members were exhausted. They decided to turn back and returned to C3 well after dark, at 9:00 pm.

Now Lust was having trouble with his right knee, which collapsed several times while he was going down: descending jolts the knee hard more than ascending.

The next day, the 19th, they reached C1 and on the 20th returned to BC.

They fixed a total of 800m of rope. 600m were used on the large "rock island" that was west of the mountain; the remaining rope was fixed higher up.

Sherpas:
Dawa Sherpa, 28/5/64 (15/2/2021), Garma-5, Solu
Pasang Sherpa, 24/4/81 (10/1/2038), Ramechap, Gudel-9, Solu, Lhotse X2,
Dhaulagiri I X1