원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C4 at South Col.

After his establishment of C1 on 18 September, there was a week of snowfall that dumped a lot of snow between C1 and the site for C2 in the Western Cwm, but much of it was blown away, leaving the route all the way to C3 on the West Face of Lhotse mostly covered by snow in good condition for climbing.

Larsen left C4 on the South Col for the summit at midnight of 14/15 October, while his five Sherpas had left C4 at 6:00 pm on the 14th and fixed rope from C4 to 100m below the top. (Rope was not fixed above the Hillary Step, where are some rock outcrops and a lot of snow. They had also fixed from C3 to C4).

Larsen caught up with the Sherpas on the 15th 250m above the Balcony and then follewed them as they fixed the route, waiting and then climbing behind them as they moved up. All six of them arrived at the summit together at 12:15 pm.

When the team had arrived at the South Col from C3, there was strong wind, but after sunrise on the 15th it died down to about 15 knots (40 Km/hr) on the summit. However at about 11:00 am on summit day, clouds rolled in, and there was intermittent cloud cover from the Col to the top and all the back way down to C4 that day and to BC, where they arrived the next day.

They had returned to C4 at 4:30 pm, left C4 on the 16th at 7:00 am, and were back in BC at 9:00 pm. Larsen wanted to stop for the night in C2, but the Sherpas insisted on continuing onto BC.

Larsen used supplemental oxygen from C3 to and in C4 to the top and down to and in C4. The five Sherpas used it from C4 to the summit to C4. Two of them, Pasang Temba and Dawa Gyalzen, had also used it between C3 and C4 because they were carrying heavy loads.

Fixed rope: 4000m from C2 to top.

Sherpa summiters:
Dawa Gyalzen Sherpa, 21/8/87, Chaurikharka, Solu, Everest 25/5/10
Nima Dorje Tamang, 8/1/80, Bakachol-9, Khotang
Pasang Dawa Sherpa, 25/5/84, Tate, Chaurikharka-7, Solu
Pasang Temba Sherpa, 27/10/86, Lukla, Solu, Everest 2/5/10
Tshering Dorje Sherpa, 3/3/89, Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X2