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Nippuro Dhaulagiri I Expedition

Dhaulagiri I · 2010 · 가을 (3) · Japan

원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 below NE Col
C2 on NE Ridge by Sherpas
High point by Sherpas on NE Ridge,

This group was an independent team acting to some extent in support of Osamu Tanabe's Dhaulagiri I team, but composed of less experienced climbers receiving some guidance from Tanabe and his teammates.

The two teams members arrived at BC on the same day, 20 September, but the six climbing Sherpas with Hiraoka's group arrived there eight days earlier to manage setting up camp and start fixing rope (Tanabe had no Sherpas with him).

On 28 September, the three Sherpas (Da Tendi, Dawa Chhiri and Pasang Gelu) were fixing rope and at 10:00 am had gotten to 6700m when they were hit by an avalanche, which went on to hit Tanabe's group below. The Sherpas were carried down 2100m. Pasang Gelu disappeared; his body was not found. Da Tendi's arm was injured, and Dawa Chhiri was hit in the groin by an ice block in the avalanche material and his back was painful. The two survivors managed to return to BC at 9:00 and 10:00 pm.

The Japanese members were on the NE Col at 5800m on their way way to C2 when at 10:02 am they were struck by the wind created by the avalanche and by snow being blown strongly by the wind. They were blown down the mountain 10 meters. Hiraoka's knee was hit and was painful to walk on, but despite his pain, he climbed up to 6600m to rescue the injured Sherpas. For the other two Isoda and Kudo, the result was painful backs, and they returned to BC at 5:00 pm.

On the next day, the 29th, a helicopter landed at Dhaulagiri's low BC and took Kudo, Isoda and Dawa Chhiri to Kathmandu. On 1 October, having abandoned their fruitless search for Pasang Gelu, Hiraoka and Da Tendi also flew to Kathmandu by helicopter.

Sherpas:
Da Tendi, (15/2/2038), Lokhim-9, Solu, no 8000ers
Dawa Chhiri, (8/11/2023), Lokhim-9, Solu, several 8000ers
Pasang Gelu, 28/11/63 (7/8/2020), Dhimbul, Gudel-9, Solu, Cho Oyu X1,
Dhaulagiri I, Everest X5

  • 내부 원정 ID6953
  • 원본 EXPIDDHA110301
  • 대장Ryushi Hiraoka
  • 루트 (Route)NE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6700m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유사고 (6)

참가자 6명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Ryuseki HiraokaJapanLeader---
Hiroshi IsodaJapanClimber---
Noboru KudoJapanClimber---
Da Dendi (Da Tendi) SherpaNepalH-A Worker---
Dawa Chhiri (Dawa Tsiri) SherpaNepalH-A Worker---
Pasang Gelu SherpaNepalH-A Worker--사망

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