Ama Dablam Expedition 2010
Ama Dablam · 2010 · 가을 (3) · Norway
원정 개요
First group of the team of six climbers, Eidesen, Faabess, Helgesen, Pedersen, Prietz along with Jangbu, Lhakpa Thundu and Kancha Nuru Sherpa left C3 at 6 am on 11 Nov for the summit. Eidesen turned around from 6400m between C3 and the Dablam (6450m) to C1 where he reached around 3 pm; he was tired. Prietz followed Eidesen with Jangbu. Helgesen and Lhakpa Thundu reached summit at 9:30 am, Faaness at 10:30 am, Pedersen and Kancha Nuru at 12:30 pm. The summiters stayed on summit for about an hour. On descent Faabess reached C2 at 4 pm and spent night there. Helgesen descended to C1 where he reached around 3 pm and spent night there. Pedersen descended to C3 at around 3 pm. Next day all went down to BC. The summit day weather was good, blue sky but little windy. There were two other Norwegian climbers and one more climber summited on that day.
The second group consisting of Grondalen, Hansen, Kristiansen, Norheim, Lhakpa Thundu, Kancha Nuru and Phur Sona (Ang Sonam) started their summit push at 7:15 am on 12 Nov. Norheim turned around from 6400m to C1 due to cold feet; she slept in C1. Grondalen and Kancha Nuru reached summit at 11:30 am, Hansen and Kristiansen at 12:00 noon with Lhakpa Thundu and Phur Sona. Grondalen and Kancha Nuru stayed on summit for about one hour and rest of members and Sherpas about 30 minutes. All summiting members and Sherpas spent night at C3 and next day all reached BC. The weather on summit day was very good, clear sky and little wind. There was a Brit and a Sherpa who summited ahead of the Norwegian team on that day.
Gjeroset (leader) shuttled between BC and C2. He went to C2 three times, but did not sleep there. He was taking care of expedition's logistics.
Voyenli climbed up to C2. He was slow and did not attempt for summit.
Saeboe had to leave the expedition due to diarrhea; he left from Tengboche on 30 Oct by helicopter and left Nepal on 2 Nov.
Note: Kancha Nuru and Lhakpa Thundu both summited on 11 Nov with first team; started with the second team from C3 on 12 Nov.
Fixed rope: 100m white tower between C2 and C3.
Sherpas:
Jangbu, 23/8/73 (07/05/2030), Namche, Cho Oyu X1
Kancha Nuru, 2/6/87 (19/02/2044), Pangboche, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
Lhakpa Thundu, 20/6/70 (06/03/2027), Pangboche, Everest X9, Cho Oyu X2, etc
Phur Sona (Ang Sonam), 17/7/69 (02/04/2026), Pangboche, Everest X1
- 내부 원정 ID6916
- 원본 EXPIDAMAD10321
- 대장Haavard Gjerdset
- 루트 (Route)SW Ridge
- 최고 도달고도6814m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 16명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Haavard Gjerdset | Norway | Leader | - | - | - |
| Fredrik Eidesen | Norway | Climber | - | - | - |
| Bastian Faaness | Norway | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Kjell-Olav Grondalen | Norway | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Guri Anne Hansen | Norway | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Sondre Helgesen | Norway | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Lars Jorpeland Kristiansen | Norway | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Berit Norheim | Norway | Climber | - | - | - |
| Matti Bernitz Pedersen | Norway | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Jon-Kristian Prietz | Norway | Climber | - | - | - |
| Odd Tokle Saeboe | Norway | Climber | - | - | - |
| Terje Voyenli | Norway | Climber | - | - | - |
| Jangbu Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |
| Kancha Nuru Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | - | - |
| Lhakpa Thundu/Thudu (Tindu) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | - | - |
| Phur Sona (Ang Sonam) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | - | - |