원정 개요

The team established BC on 11 November at 4800m, the normal site for Ama Dablam climbs, and then went from there to Island Peak for acclimatize. All members and Siddhi Bahadur Tamang summited on the 13th and returned to BC on the 15th.

They moved to C1 for the night of the 18th and on the 19th went up to the site for C2 to acclimatize further, but went down to BC the same day. Then followed a period of very high winds (7-80 km/hr) which kept them in BC until the 24th, when four members and a Tamang began their bid for the summit.

On the 24th they slept in C1, and on 25 October they established C2. Zangrilli and Siddhi put Brandt, Hedlund and Van Gassel in their tent and made their dinner, then went down to C1 in order to minimize loads. At 12:15 am of the 26th, Zangrilli and Siddhi left C1, climbed for 45 minutes to join the other summit party members in C2, and the five men left C2 at 1:20 am for the top in no wind. They all summited at 12:00 noon in 30 km/hr wind.

Brandt and Van Gassel returned to C2 at 4 pm. But Hedlund was extremely tired, and Zangrilli stopped with him at another team's site, where Zangrilli gave Van Gassel the food and water Zangrilli had carried with him, and half an hour later they moved slowly down to C3, where they arrived at 6 pm. In C2 Zangrilli and Siddhi again made dinner for the members and returned to C1.

Zangrilli and Siddhi returned to C2 at 8:30 am on the 27th. They woke up the three members, gave them breakfast and packed up the camp. They all descended to BC at 2 pm in the face of 50 km/hr.

Non-summiting members:

Gerstein reached half way between C1 and C2 on 25 October on the team's way to establish C2, then retreated to C1 and next day to BC. He was overweight and had two artificial knees that did not permit his feet to operate normally.

Gustavsson got to C1 and slept there twice and immediately went back to BC both times. She was intimidated by the drop-offs she saw from the route.

Joll slept in C1 on the 25th and reached 6500m the next day with the summit party but became too tired to go on; he turned around there and descended to C1 that day and to BC the following day.

Hired:
Siddhi Bahadur Tamang, 1981, Lamabagar-5, Dolakha, no 8000ers