Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Ama Dablam Expedition 2010
Ama Dablam · 2010 · 가을 (3) · Poland
원정 개요
Before going to Ama Dablam, 10 members and Lhakpa Chhiri summited Island Peak to acclimatize. On the summit on 1 Nov were Kepczynski, Ligas, Marganski, Pawlowski, Schleypen, Waszkowska, Zablocki and Zadarnowska-Wingert.
BC was established by the two members who did not climb Island Peak, Kanawka and Madejczyk, plus a Sherpa. The leader, Pawlowski, and the others who did climb Island Peak arrived at BC on 4 November.
The team's Ama Dablam's summit dates were scattered over four days as follows:
10 November: Pawlowski, who had summited Ama Dablam numerous times before, started from C2 at 8:30 am, was on the top at 10:30 am and descended all the way to C1 at 4:00 pm. Schleypen left C2 at 9:00 am, summited at 3:30 pm, and stopped at C3 at about 5:30 pm. Zadarnowska-Wingert and Lhakpa Chhiri started from C3 at 7:00 am, reached the summit at 2:20 pm and were also back in C3 at 5:30 pm. All returned to BC on the 11th.
11 November: Zablocki went alone to the summit. He left C3 at 6:30 am, was on top at 1:45 pm, and was back in C3 at about 3 pm.
13 November: Two more members summited now. Ligas and Przyborski moved out of C3 at about 7 am, reached the top at 1:00 pm, and returned to C3 at 4:00 pm.
14 November: Finally the last two had their turn. Kepczynski and Marganski started from C3 at 8:00 am, summited at 2:00 pm, and went back to C3 at 5 pm.
Non-summiting members:
Kanawka and her husband, Madejczyk, climbed to C1 on 2 November, did not want to continue the climb, and left the expedition on 4 Nov.
Spik-Pawlowska was a member of the first summit party on 10 November with her husband, Ryszard Pawlowski, and reached 6400m but then turned back and descended to C1; she had had enough when she found there was too much ice on the route.
Waszkowska got to C1 on 6 November, had a bad cough and retreated to BC. She trekked to Pangboche village for two or three days and was back in BC before the climbing period had ended.
Sherpa:
Lhakpa Chhiri (Sonam), 17/11/74, Pangboche, Everest X6
- 내부 원정 ID6904
- 원본 EXPIDAMAD10309
- 대장Ryszard Pawlowski
- 루트 (Route)SW Ridge
- 최고 도달고도6814m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 13명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ryszard Jan Pawlowski | Poland | Leader | 성공 | - | - |
| Agnieszka Daria Kanawka | Poland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Przemyslaw Paul Kepczynski | Sweden | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Ryszard Ligas | USA | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Wieslaw Czeslaw Madejczyk | Poland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Lukasz Kacper Marganski | Poland | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Maciej Przyborski | Poland | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Carlos Hermann Alexander Schleypen | Germany | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Magdalena Emilia Spik-Pawlowska | Poland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Malgorzata Sylwia Waszkowska | Poland | Climber | - | - | - |
| Pawel Robert Zablocki | Poland | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Iwona Zadarnowska-Wingert | Poland | Climber | 성공 | - | - |
| Lhakpa Chhiri (Sonam) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | - | - |