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Patagonia Mountain Agency (PMA) Ama Dablam Expedition 2010

Ama Dablam · 2010 · 가을 (3) · Poland

원정 개요

Before going to Ama Dablam, 10 members and Lhakpa Chhiri summited Island Peak to acclimatize. On the summit on 1 Nov were Kepczynski, Ligas, Marganski, Pawlowski, Schleypen, Waszkowska, Zablocki and Zadarnowska-Wingert.

BC was established by the two members who did not climb Island Peak, Kanawka and Madejczyk, plus a Sherpa. The leader, Pawlowski, and the others who did climb Island Peak arrived at BC on 4 November.

The team's Ama Dablam's summit dates were scattered over four days as follows:

10 November: Pawlowski, who had summited Ama Dablam numerous times before, started from C2 at 8:30 am, was on the top at 10:30 am and descended all the way to C1 at 4:00 pm. Schleypen left C2 at 9:00 am, summited at 3:30 pm, and stopped at C3 at about 5:30 pm. Zadarnowska-Wingert and Lhakpa Chhiri started from C3 at 7:00 am, reached the summit at 2:20 pm and were also back in C3 at 5:30 pm. All returned to BC on the 11th.

11 November: Zablocki went alone to the summit. He left C3 at 6:30 am, was on top at 1:45 pm, and was back in C3 at about 3 pm.

13 November: Two more members summited now. Ligas and Przyborski moved out of C3 at about 7 am, reached the top at 1:00 pm, and returned to C3 at 4:00 pm.

14 November: Finally the last two had their turn. Kepczynski and Marganski started from C3 at 8:00 am, summited at 2:00 pm, and went back to C3 at 5 pm.

Non-summiting members:

Kanawka and her husband, Madejczyk, climbed to C1 on 2 November, did not want to continue the climb, and left the expedition on 4 Nov.

Spik-Pawlowska was a member of the first summit party on 10 November with her husband, Ryszard Pawlowski, and reached 6400m but then turned back and descended to C1; she had had enough when she found there was too much ice on the route.

Waszkowska got to C1 on 6 November, had a bad cough and retreated to BC. She trekked to Pangboche village for two or three days and was back in BC before the climbing period had ended.

Sherpa:
Lhakpa Chhiri (Sonam), 17/11/74, Pangboche, Everest X6

  • 내부 원정 ID6904
  • 원본 EXPIDAMAD10309
  • 대장Ryszard Pawlowski
  • 루트 (Route)SW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6814m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 13명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Ryszard Jan PawlowskiPolandLeader성공--
Agnieszka Daria KanawkaPolandClimber---
Przemyslaw Paul KepczynskiSwedenClimber성공--
Ryszard LigasUSAClimber성공--
Wieslaw Czeslaw MadejczykPolandClimber---
Lukasz Kacper MarganskiPolandClimber성공--
Maciej PrzyborskiPolandClimber성공--
Carlos Hermann Alexander SchleypenGermanyClimber성공--
Magdalena Emilia Spik-PawlowskaPolandClimber---
Malgorzata Sylwia WaszkowskaPolandClimber---
Pawel Robert ZablockiPolandClimber성공--
Iwona Zadarnowska-WingertPolandClimber성공--
Lhakpa Chhiri (Sonam) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공--

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