원정 개요

Dean Perez - 8-9 Dec 2010 (by email)

I used Mongolian Treks & Expeditions as my outfitter. I was climbing alone, but the agency put me in a group to split the cost of the climb. The others were:

Lydia Bradey (team leader), New Zealand
David Gywnne-Jones (Lydia’s client), New Zealand
Eric Haselsteiner, Germany

Campsites:
Oct 19 - Arrival date
Oct 19-20 – Base Camp
Oct 21 – C1
Oct 22-23 – back to Base Camp
Oct 24 – C1
Oct 25 – C2
Oct 26 – Summit, back to C1
Oct 27 – Base Camp
Oct 28 - Departure date

We climbed the SW Ridge. I was one of the lucky summiters on that month. No one would be able to ascent from C3 to the summit due to a bad snow condition. A British team lead by Scottish climber with the help of 3 Sherpas fixed a rope and made to the summit on October 25th, then the following day (October 26th), my Sherpa and I pushed for the summit from C2 and summited around 10 am. I did not have enough time to climb with the group, so I decided to climb alone; the rest of the group summited on the 28th. I was climbing with Melissa Arnot (First Ascent athlete from the USA) and her client that day.

I was behind 45 mins [at the summit]. They were off from C2 for the summit at around 4:00 am and we followed them 30 mins after they departed.

Nuru Wangchu and I descended to C1 from the summit, where we met Eric and the rest of the group. The next day I went back to base camp, while Nuru stayed with Eric. Lydia and Eric's plan was to sleep in C3. I believe Nuru went back to C2 and did not sleep in C3.

Lydia has been in the base camp for about a week when I arrived. Eric has been climbing around Khumbu region that month. He had summited Island Peak. I believe we both arrived at the base camp on the same day.