원정 개요

Kim Hong-Bin, Karma Gyalzen and Nima Chhedar started from their summit push from C3 at 10 pm on 22 April. At the beginning the weather was clear but cold and a little windy. Same time the members of Korea Expressway Corporation expedition, Kang, Kim Joo-Hung, Kim Mi-Gon, Park, Yun, Sanu and Chinjung, started from C3 as well. When I met Kim on 29 April at his hotel he was exhausted. Kim said that he and his two Sherpas got to the summit on 23 April in complete white-out. He did not check his watch so he does not know the summit time. Karma Gyalzen joined us a little later during the interview. He too said that they got to the summit. They stayed on the summit about 10-15 minutes and descended. Kim had to biv at around 8000m due to the bad weather with other Korean climbers. On 24 April Kim again had to biv alone above C3 at around 7200m-7300m due to bad weather. He realized he had frostbite in the night around 11-12 pm. On 25 April Kim reached C2 to Samagaon then to Kathmandu by Helicopter. He had treatment at Norvic.

Sherpas:
Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, 21/10/2032, Bung-9
(got frostbite in one finger)
Nima Chhedar Lama, 15/10/2035, Chepuwa-1
(got frostbite in all fingers of right hand)


No summit:

I met Kim Mi-Gon, climbing leader of the Korea Expressway Corporation expedition (KECE) on 2 June 2010 in Kathmandu. During our meeting Kim told me that none of his team members and Sherpas got to the summit. While asking about the summit claim of Kim Hong-Bin, he did like to comment on it. Meanwhile, I had a few email exchanges to know the high points of the members with other member of the KECE, Kang Yeon-Ryong. He wrote in his email on 1 Oct that Kim Mi-Gon's high point was 8050m. Meanwhile, Kim Hong-Bin in his email reply to my email on 7 Oct wrote that he was with Kim Mi-Gon (Kon). That indicates that Kim Hong-Bin's high point was 8050m as with Kim Mi-Gon.

Fixed rope: 50m contributed.


Kim Hing-Bin - 25 Nov 2010 (email)

"I agree with Kim Mi-Gon's insist and the message that Kim Mi-Gon sent you is right." (Thus no summit, high point for all "summiters" was 8050m).