원정 개요

C1 on rocks at foot of snow slope (40 degrees)
C2 at snow plateau
C3 at snow face
High at NE Face.

Both members, Alexander Bijlsma and his wife, and their two "Sherpas," Pemba Tamang and Kumar Magar, moved up and down the mountain together (except that Magar descended to BC the day before the others).

On 21 October the four climbers left C3 for the summit on 21 October at 3:30 am, when it was dark and cold, but not windy. They climbed to 7000m, where they arrived at about 7:00 am. Now they were in the middle of a windstorm, which was blowing particles of frozen snow that stung and that reduced visibility to only a few meters. Fierce gusts of wind made it hard to stand upright; Bijlsma and his wife had to use a stick in each hand to stand against the wind. They couldn't get their fingers warm; eight days after the storm, the fingers of the Dutch members were still numb from the cold.

The team retreated from 7000m to C3, where they found that snow had been driven inside their inner tents. They went down to C2, where the wind the wind was still very strong, and on down to C2, where the wind was still strong, but there was no snow. The Dutch and Pemba stayed in C1 that night while Kumar continued to descend to BC. Everyone in BC the next day, the 22nd. Their climb was finished, and they left the mountain on the 24th.

Hired:
Kumar Magar, 28-29 years old, Kratrasingo, Solu (near Phaplu), no 8000ers
Pemba Tamang, 31/5/73, Taksindu, no 8000ers