원정 개요

BC below smaller lake to SE of mountain
C1 atop a rock rib at snow lane on SE Face (normal C2).

Fixed ropes on normal route up SE face with idea of acclimatizing here and then going to South Col and South Ridge and use normal route via NE Ridge and down route they'd fixed. On SE Face was in such good condition were able to pitch C1 on 24th. 25th C1 stocked. 26th Lapkass and Kendall up to sleep in C1 and on 27th 3:00 am started up from C1, fixing rope and climbing went very fast and just carried on to summit via East Col and NE Ridge and descended to BC on same day.

Confident now that climb for clients was quickest and safest way to top. 28th Jennings and Radford to C1 for summit on 29th but had restless night and spent extra day at C1. 29th J Lapkass, Schneider and A Lapkass to C1. 30th 10:05 am Jennings and Radford to C1 for summit on 29th but had restless night and spent extra day at C1. 29th J Lapkass, Schneider and A Lapkass left for top. Schneider stayed in C1. 30th 4 men to top at noon and back to C1 at 5:00 pm, clients exhausted. 31st to BC (Schneider to BC 30th afternoon). 1st and 2nd Nov rest days.

3rd Nov 00:05 am A Lapkass from BC to S Col and S Ridge, on top at 8:00 am and down normal route to BC at 11:30 am in solo traverse. French and US worked well together.