원정 개요

BC near point 5295 on National Geographic map
C1 in middle of 1st icefall
C2 at top of Col on West Ridge
Biv on West Ridge
High point on West Ridge.

From BC climbed along ridge N from Pt 5295, then west to left of Pt 5412 a glacier; then skirted 2nd icefall to bottom of col and up 1000 ft of 70 degrees ice to col and fixed 1000 ft of rope here. Col at 21,300 ft they figured (=6492m - map says 6479m), where finally joined W Ridge and put C2, all 3 members together. On 5th Oct McCormick and Nowak down to base of col for more rope and all met at C1. 7th Oct all rested in C2. 8th all 3 got through 1st rock stop, dug snow cave a 22,500 ft (6860m) and slept there. At 4:00 am 9th got up and left by 6:00 am and were going for summit when Nowak knocked off loose rock in shale steps only a rope length above cave and it arced downwards and hit McCormick who looked around and up from a very protected spot rock smashed his glasses and blood formed behind his eye. Climb immediately aborted, Nowak lowered Van Meter 1st and then McCormick. Reached C2 by 4 pm. To BC on 10th and left BC 11th. McCormick to Lukla in 2 days. McCormick was able to stumble down did not go into shock. Lucky to be alive.