원정 개요

C1 lower than normal
C3 on North Face
C4 on North Face.

On 19 April, the team flew from Kathmandu to Pokhara and next day took a charter flight to Juphal, then trekked to Dunai. From there they set out on foot for BC via Tarakot, Musi Khola and Kakot (3290m) to an acclimatization camp at 4155m for two nights, 25 and 26 April.

Their itinerary called for their trek to BC on the 27th, but they stayed three nights at the so-called German BC at 4640m because of snowfall which dumped six inches of snow at this camp. Finally they could proceed to their BC at 4910m on the 30th.

Once on the mountain, they moved steadily up to make four camps before going for the top. Four members and four Sherpas set out from C4 for the summit at 6:00 am on 10 May. They were Chapman, Haala, Harkins, Laurence, Kaji, Lhakpa Tenzi, Pasang and Pasang Rinji. All reached the top at 1:15-1:30 pm and returned to C4 at 4:30 pm. They descended to BC on the 11th.

Non-summiting members:

Johnson developed an ear infection. He went to C1 on 3 May with the others to establish the camp and spents two nights there but he retreated to BC on the 5th and stayed there throughout the rest of the climb.

Allen and Armitage went all the way up to C4 with the team on 9 May, but on the 10th, instead of joining the summit push, they descended to BC. They were not acclimatizing well. Furthermore they had been unsettled on the 8th by being caught in a windslab avalanche with Chapman when moving up between C2 and C3; They dug in with their ice axes and let the avalanches pass over them. They were not hurt, but the experience shook them.

The only person to use oxygen was Armitage, who consumed it in C4.

Sherpas:
Kaji Sherpa, 24 years old, Kanku-5, Solu, no 8000ers
Lhakpa Tenzi Sherpa, 33 years old, Lokhim-4, Solu, no 8000ers
Pasang Sherpa, 9/3/74, Ngimar, Garma-5, Solu, Everest 19/5/06
Pasang Rinji, 22 years old, Lukla, Solu, no 8000ers