원정 개요

The members climberd Pumori to acclimatized before attempting their main goal, the summit of Annapurna I.

Their BC was placed on 22 March at the normal site near lake at 5350m. On the 23rd they carried loads to C1 site at 5700m and the next day all members returned to the site to sleep for two nights, fix ropes and make a deposit of gear.

They returned to BC on the 26th. On the 28th, Bogomolov, Colibasanu, Garcia, and Vinogradski returned to C1 to spend the night there. The next day, they made a deposit above the camp; Bogomolov and Vinogradski stayed in C1 while the other two members returned to BC.

On the 30 all members mvoed up to C2 at 6400m below the East Col, and on the 31st they went up to check the route to the col and to fix ropes.

They tried to go to the summit. All seven members left C2 at 6:00 am on 1 May. Hamor and Pustelnik turned back at 6700m, at the end of the fixed ropes because Pustelnik had no strength left; they descended to BC. The other five reached 7000m, about 150m below the top, at 2 pm and then retreated to C2. They did not have the ice screws they would need for the final climb to the summit, and they were being hit by strong northwesterly winds of up to 80 km/hour. Garcia's toes were getting numb: he was not ready for such cold wind. They arrived at C2 at 5:00 pm, where all except Colibasanu stayed; Colibasanu went on down to BC and joined Hamor and Pustelnik there at 9:00 pm. Everybody was in BC on the 2nd.

Pustelnik had a slight case of pulmonary edema. He and Hamor left on the 3rd and the others left on the 5th. No one else had any health problems. A few rocks and ice blocks fell, but there were no snow avalanches, and one was hurt.