원정 개요

BC was established at the south end of Barun Pokhari (lake). ABC was placed at the south end of the SE Ridge, which had turned south at its bottom end, and C1 was higher on this southward bottom part of the ridge. C2 was placed at the South Col, after having climbed northward and crossed over the top of 6825m high Peak 3. C3 was on a small plateau on the SE Ridge.

The expedition was plagued by bad weather: snowfall, plus very strong winds that blew at 60-70 km/hr every day after C1 had been established on 15 April on the exposed ridge. In addition, they were climbing a route that was ten kilometers long.

C2 was not occupied until 10 May because the distance between the camps was three and a half kilometers, and they had to spend a long time moving up, fixing rope and establishing a gear dump at C2's site but sleeping every night in C1. C1 actually became an advance BC, where the team stayed when descending from higher altitudes rather than going all the way down to BC.

It took four days to fix the rope from C2 to C3, which was occupied on 20 May. Then they had to retreat to C1 for three days because bad weather had set in again. On the 23rd one foot of snow fell within 15 hours; that morning Gale and Smith had fixed lines to 7600m, which turned out to be the expedition's high point. The snow buried these ropes.

They stayed in C3 hoping for better weather until the 26th. They they abandoned the climb.

The expedition fixed a total of 3000m of rope and used 4000m rope that they had installed when they were on the same route in 2008.

While moving up and down between C1 and C2, their four climbing Sherpas and every member except Hornby and Jones went up and over the summit of Peak 3.

Oxygen was used by members in and from C3, and to C2 when carrying big loads to clear the mountain. Sherpas used none.

Colin Scott suffered a frostbitten finger, but it will heal completely.

Members high points:

Gale to 7600m fixing rope.

Hart was not expected to go very high; he got stomach trouble at 6800m.

Hornby as expedition doctor went to C1 (6200m) only.

Jones was assigned to look after logictics; he also went no higher than C1.

Parkes went to C3 (7300m) and waited there for improvement in the weather.

Colin Scott also went to C3 and waited for better weather.

Phylip Scott, like Hart, had not been expected to be a high climber; he got to 6800m also.

Sherwood, like Hart and Phylip Scott, had not been expected to go very high and stopped at 6800m.

Smith to 7600m with Gale fixing rope.

Sherpas:
Dawa Gelu, 18/1/73 (5/10/2037), Sedua, Makalu-4, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2
Mingma Thinduk, 22/9/80 (6/6/2037), Makalu-9, Everest X1, Cho Oyu X1
Ongda Gyalzen (Indian citizen), 23/2/81 (12/11/20370), Makalu-9,
moved to Darjeeling, Everest X2
Pasang Ngima, 11/10/87 (25/6/2044), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Dhaulagiri I X1