원정 개요

C4 at bottom of couloir.

The summit party consisted of just three members: Chekhlov, Pivtsov and Zhumayev. They left C4 at 3:00 am on 16 May and reached the summit at 1:00 pm, then returned to C4 at 5:30 pm to spend that night and the next day there. On the 18th they went down to C2 and on the 19th were back in BC.

Non-summiting members:

Gabbasov developed a bad headache (maybe incipient cerebral edema) in C1 on 28th April and returned to BC. On 4 May, he climbed up to C2 but did not sleep there; he had now lost all motivation to continue the climb.

Ilyinski, who is 69 years old, never went above BC and had no plan to do so. He is a coach in the military's mountaineering group.

Khonin was in the Himalaya for the first time and had stomach trouble on 24 April before the team reached BC. He climbed up to C4 on 6 May carrying a load but immediately descended to C2 and was back in BC on the 8th. He remained in BC for the duration of the climb; he had no strength left.

When Sofrygin returned to BC on 8 May from C4, the area behind his nose and eyebrows was painful. He also remained in BC.

Most of the team left BC on 20 May, but Ilinski and Zhumayev stayed at BC while Asian Trekking Sherpas with their Eco Everest climbers brought down to C1 the body of the Kazakhstani climber, Sergei Samoylov, who had fallen to his death while on Lhotse in the spring of 2009. From C1, a helicopter brought the two men and Samoylov's body from C1 to Gorak Shep on the 27th. Then porters hired at BC came down to bury the body in a spot halfway to Gorak Shep.

Ilyinski flew in the helicopter to Kathmandu that day while Zhumayev trekked out to Lukla and got back to Kathmandu on the 30th.