한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

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Lhotse Expedition

Lhotse · 2010 · 봄 (1) · Russia

원정 개요

Manuylov, Lutokhin, Kirievski and Totmyanin started their summit push from C4. Manuylov started his push at 6 am (the others had started a bit earlier). The weather and snow conditions were good. The route was partly fixed. Manuylov reached the summit at 6:15 pm and descended to C4 the same day where he arrived very late. Manuylov stayed with the Kazakh team at C4. The following day, he reached C2 and on 18th he reached base camp.

Manuylov used oxygen from 7400m to the summit back down to C4.

Lutokhin, Kirievski and Totmyanin (none of them used oxygn) had turned back during the summit push at different altitudes due to bad health. They all descended to C2 on that day.

On 6th May, the team tried their first summit push and reached about 8300m. They turned back as it was getting too late in the day and they spent the night at C4. When they got back to C4, Duganov started feeling bad in the evening and on 7th May in the morning Belous, Bolotov, Duganov, Kirievski and Totmyanin started to go down. Duganov walked for a few meters and collapsed after having clipped into the fixed rope and died. His teammates tried to resuscitate him, but there was no sign of life. His body was taken down to C2, where a helicopter picked it up on 20th May 2010.

Duganov died of high altitude cerebral or pulmonary edema on 7th May at 10 am near C4.

Frolov and Pavlenko reached C4 on 15th May. Frolov did not join the summit push on 16th May, as he did not feel confident about the climb. Pavlenko did not go due to a bad cough.

Ladygin reached C3 on 10th May and decided to abandon the climb as he did not feel confident and it was his first 8000m peak.

Loutzenko reached 7200m, just above C3 on 5th May; he abandoned the expedition due to a bad cough.

Rozhkov Eduard reached C3 on 25th April; he abandoned the expedition due to bad cough and flu.

Rozhkov Ilya and Ryzhenko reached C3 on 22nd April; they abandoned the expedition due to flu and bad cough.

Lutokhin reached 7900m on 15th May; he was on the summit push with Manuylov but turned back just outside C4 due to a bad cough.

Alexandr Frolov used oxygen from 7500m to his high point and back to 7500m. Apart from Frolov and Manuylov, nobody else used oxygen on the mountain.

  • 내부 원정 ID6785
  • 원본 EXPIDLHOT10102
  • 대장Alexei Bolotov
  • 루트 (Route)W Face
  • 최고 도달고도8516m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 14명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Alexei BolotovRussiaLeader---
Gennady KirievskyRussiaDeputy Leader---
Vladimir BelousRussiaClimber---
Sergei DuganovRussiaClimber--사망
Alexandre Pavlovich FrolovNew ZealandClimber-사용-
Alexandr LadyginRussiaClimber---
Vladimir LoutsenkoRussiaClimber---
Alexandr LutokhinRussiaClimber---
Andrei ManuylovRussiaClimber성공사용-
Dmitri PavlenkoRussiaClimber---
Eduard RozhkovRussiaClimber---
Ilya RozhkovRussiaClimber---
Arkadiy RyzhenkoRussiaClimber---
Nikolai TotmyaninRussiaClimber---

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