원정 개요

BC at edge of Pangri glacier
C1 at beginning of glacier
C2 on south side of false summit.

Summit: On 17th May by Becker, Gaugg, Honold, Klauser, Kancha, Zamba, Lal Bdr Tamang at 3:30 pm.

Honold decided to do a different route from the normal route as other teams they had met on the approach march had told him that the crevasses on the normal route were too big to cross without a ladder. However, the teams had bad weather during their expedition and finding a way through the crevasses would have been more difficult. Honold chose the SW Ridge, the route of the Japanese in 2009. Unlike the Japanese, they had no C3. The route went below the C3 of the Japanese.

The whole team left C2 on 17th May at 3:30 pm. Good weather, clear and calm. Route was icy and no snow. They fixed a rope on the ridge from the false to the real summit. They reached the summit at 3:30 pm, stayed half an hour and descended to C2, where they arrived at 9:00 pm.

On 18th May they descended to BC.

Schneider and Hermwille reached 6200m at 8:30 am on summit day. Schneider was too tired to carry on. Hermwille found out that his crampon technique was not good enough and the climb was too technical. He did not have enough water for the climb. Both waited for the team to summit and come back to pick them up at 6200m.

Sherpas:
Ang Jambu Sherpa, 18/5/79 (4/2/2036), Tapting-7, Solu
Kancha Lama Sherpa, 19/11/82 (4/8/2030), Taksindu-2, Solu
Lal Bahadur Tamang, 21/6/83 (7/3/2040), Ramche-6, Rasuwa