원정 개요

BC at 2 hours above other's BC - at foot of SW Ridge
Biv 1 at British C1
Biv 2 at British C2.

Had no fixed camps. First, went to S Face from BC to lake due south of face and made depot, while 2 Boleschs climbed to 5700m on face, fixing 300m of rope till noon; now warmth of sun destroyed snow's crust and big danger of avalanches of ice and some rocks. Big ice chunk hit Rainer on arm; all the time small avalanches. Went down to morriane and discussed situation and decided face too dangerous and were too slow climbing to accomplish climb during night time; 60-70 degrees hard rock climbing above and "looks very good" route. Rainer and wife went to British on SW Ridge and asked if could join them and they agreed.

All 4 members returned to BC same day. 2 days rest at BC, then took equipment to C1. Peter got sick (flu) and went down to Pangboche. On 15th Oct other 3 members up to British C2 and Rainer worked hard with Harper to fix mushroom ridge which his wife ferried loads from C1. 18th Rainer and others 2 down to BC, where Peter was now, in stormy weather. 21st all moved up again, Peter to C1 and other three to C2. 22nd Peter to C3 (in slightly different site from British) while other three went for summit. Rainer to summit (last 250m steep rock) while other 2 waited for him below and then all 3 descended.

Peter remained in C3 but they on down to C1 and one day (22nd). 23rd they to BC while Harper and Jeff and Peter Bolesch up; Peter started at 8:30 am (one hour after 2 British) passed Jeff (who turned back) and reached summit at same time as Harper.

Detail of Summit

22 Oct 1990: Mr Rainer Bolesch (leader - German) started from C2 at 6 am and reached the summit at 12:30 pm; stayed on the summit for 10 minutes, took photographs only and later descended to C1 and stayed overnight.

Note: Mr Rainer Bolesch had accompanied with his wife Eva Maria Bolesch and Joerg Zengerle from C2 towards the summit on 22 Oct but only Rainer Bolesch had managed to reach the summit and the other two members had waited 250m below the summit for Mr Rainer and later three of them came together to C1 and stayed overnight.

23 Oct 1990 - Mr Peter Bolesch started from C3 at 8:30 am and reached the summit at 11 am, stayed on the summit for 1/2 hour and took photographs and later descended to BC which he finally reached at 5 pm.

26 Oct 1990 - Once again Rainer Bolesch along with his wife Eva Maria Bolesch (German Nurse) and the other climber Joerg Zengerle started from C2 at 6 am and three of them managed to reach the summit at 12:30 pm stayed on the summit for 1/2 hour, took photographs only and later descended to C2 which they reached at 2:30 pm.

Note: this was the second time summit for Mr Rainer Bolesch (leader).

27 Oct 1990 - Three members which had stayed on C2 overnight, reached the BC.

28 Oct 1990 - left BC.

01 Nov 1990 - Mr Peter Bolesch and Joerg Zengerle arrive Lukla/KTM.