원정 개요

Han, Rao, Li, Lou, Yang, Zhang Liang, Zhang Wei, Zhao Liang, Dawa Chhiri Sherpa, Dawa Tenji, Kili Pemba, Kami Singee Tamang, Pemba Chhiri, Lhakpa Gelu, Dendi, Mingma Chhiri and Mingma Sherpa (Iranian Expedition) started their summit bid from C3 at 1 am on 13 May in good weather. The team reached to the top at 12:30 pm except Mingma Chhiri. They stayed on the summit for about 30 minutes. When they reached to the summit it was cloudy and after a while a snowstorm started. The team descended to C3 in bad weather, some times it was total white-out. Zhang Wei, Dawa Chhiri, Mingma Chhiri and Mingma reached C3 between 5-6 pm. Zhang Liang reached C3 after 6 pm. Yang arrived C3 after midnight. On 14 May three Sherpas rescued Lou (frostbitten feet) and Rao from 7700m. Lou reached C3 at 10 am and Rao at 6 pm. Three members, Han, Li and Zhao, could not make it to C3. The remaining climbers were exhausted and descending slowly and had asked for evacuation. On 15 May Fishtail Air and Swiss Air Zermatt on its reconnaissance flights located 8 people stuck in C3, but could not make any rescue work due to bad weather. On 16 May four Chinese climbers and 2 Sherpas were evacuated from between C2 and C1 to BC. Then five Chinese were flown to Kathmandu. Dawa Chhiri was flown in to Kathmandu on 17 May and hospitalized.

Zhang Shuo-Ping climbed up to C2 on 26 April and left BC on 3 May due to time constraint.

Mingma Chhiri Sherpa, climbed up to 7900m; he did not go beyond.

When I met Yang and Zhang Wei on 22 May they told me all other members already left Kathmandu and they were not sure when they will be leaving.

Injuries:
Rao - frostbitten feet.
Lou - frostbitten feet.
Zhang Wei - snowblind.

Dawa Chhiri Sherpa was exhausted and slept in open at about 7000m. When he woke up he realized that he could not move right part of his body. After sunrise, heat from the sun helped him to move very slowly.

Deaths:

Han fell above C3 about 7400m. Dawa Chhiri said he was walking down carelessly and not clipped with fix rope. He might have suffered from high altitude sickness. Dawa Chhiri saw Han fall. There was no trace of body.

Li was exhausted and could not walk; maybe suffered from high altitude sickness at 7600m.

Zhao Liang fell above C3 about 7400m; he might have suffered from high altitude sickness. There was no trace of body.

Fixed rope: between C2 and summit.

Sherpas:
Dawa Tshering/Chhiri, 3/8/1971, Beding, Cho Oyu X6, Ever X4, Makalu, Manaslu X2
Dawa Tenzen/Tenji, 31/10/75, Beding, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X5, Kang X1, Manaslu X1
Kili Pemba, 15/05/80, Beding, Cho Oyu X2, Everest X4, Manaslu X2
Kami Singee Syangba Tamang, Ramche-4, Rasuwa, Everest, Makalu, Manaslu
Lhakpa Gelu, 31/08/88, Gorakhani-1, Solu, Manaslu X1
Dendi, Gorakhani-2, Everest X2, Kang, Manaslu
Mingma Chhiri, 19/1/72 (5/10/2028), Beding
Pemba Chhiri, 24/02/87 (12/11/2043), Simigaon-3, Dolakha
Mingma Sherpa, 16/06/1978, Nurbu Chaur, Upper Walung, Makalu-9, Cho Oyu X3
Ever X1, Makalu X1, etc
He was supposed to climb with the Iranian Dhaulagiri expedition.
When Mingma came to Dhaulagiri Iranian had already left.