Marsigny Dhaulagiri Expedition
Dhaulagiri I · 2010 · 봄 (1) · France
원정 개요
Francois Marsigny in his email wrote that they went up to C1 on 27 April and slept. Next day to BC. The team gave up climbing Dhaulagiri due to bad weather and danger of serac fall between BC and C1.
We arrived in BC 25 April from the French Pass. Its altitude is 4650m. The 27 April we went to C1 in 6 hours 15 minutes from BC. Altitude C1 around 5800m near to the pass. The 28 April we went down to BC and we left it on the 29 April. Maybe the shortest expedition of the history of Dhaulagiri.
There was some fix rope below the Eigar to climb up an to traverse (around 1000m) and we used them. There was some few spots of fix ropes on the glacier, but we didn't use them.
We decided to stop this expedition simply because it was too dangerous due to the serac falls between BC and C1. And because we were not enough acclimatized which obliged us to do it again and again (the weather was not good enough to stay in altitude to finish the acclimatization in one time). The day we climbed to C1 we saw avalanche and serac, fortunately not too big, and Gyelze Sherpa (our friend Sherpa) dropped his backpack and ran in the opposite direction to be safe. In case it would be bigger and few people Swiss and Sherpa would be seriously injured. Because I am mountain guide and instructor at the ENSA (National School of Ski and Alpinism in France), I couldn't accept that kind of risk for relative, my wife Martine, and friend, Gyelze Sherpa.
Sherpa:
Gyalze Sherpa, 26/9/77, Kagani-8, Okhaldhunga, Everest 22/5/08
- 내부 원정 ID6774
- 원본 EXPIDDHA110103
- 대장Francois Marsigny
- 루트 (Route)NE Ridge
- 최고 도달고도5800m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)
참가자 3명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Francois Jacques Jean Marsigny | France | Leader | - | - | - |
| Martine Fernande Girod Marsigny | France | Climber | - | - | - |
| Gyalze (Gelje) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |