원정 개요

High point at summit plateau.

Three members, Amort, Felicetti and Giongo, arrived at ABC later than the others, on 4 May instead of 25 April, and stayed later, until 27 May instead of 21 May.

The mountain was very dry. It was "completely rock above C3 (sites)."

The climbers spent the time from 3 May, when C1 was established, to the 16th, when they made C2, moving up and down the mountain, acclimatizing and carrying laods up to C2's site at 7135m. (They had only one Sherpa for 12 members.)

The team did not pitch any C3 because its site was too close to C2 and these climbers were fast. However, not all members agreed that there should be no C3 since that meant C2 was 1000m below the summit; furthermore, on the summit plateau there was a considerable linear distance to be crossed to reach the highest point.

The expedition made two serious bids and one aborted attempt to reach the summit. On 17 May Dado, Montolli and Orlando left C2 at 3:15 am (NST). Orlando turned back at 8031m, just below the plateau, because he had no more strength. He managed to reach C2 alone at 6:00 pm. Dado and Montolli got onto the plateau. Montolli made the mistake of turning left on the plateau while Dado went straight ahead. Snow started falling, and they wandered around for an hour separately, not seeing each other, from about 6:00 pm. They got back to C2 at 10:30-11:00 pm. All three descended to ABC the next day.

Two other members, Mich and Valentini, made their attempt to summit from C2 by leaving at 1:30am on 22 May. Mich gave up at about 7700m around 5:00 am. Valentini climbed very fast, and Mich, trying to keep up with him, became too tired to continue. Valentini himself turned around at about 7900m at 5:00 am when his toes were getting very cold. they descended to ABC, where they arrived at about 4:30 pm.

The three who had joined the others somewhat late, Amort, Felicetti and Giongo, stayed on at ABC after the rest of the team had left, hoping the weather would be good enough for them to make their own summit bid. They climbed from ABC to C1 on the 22nd and went on to C2 the next day. But now it was snowing, so on the 24th they abandoned the effort and returned to ABC.

Other members:

Bartoli went up to C1 on about 2 May, developed a serious ear problem, and left the expedition on 4 May.

Carpano got to C1 three or four times, but was too tired to climb higher and spent most of his time in ABC.

When Defrancesco descended to ABC from C1 on 10 May. He had cerebral edema and left the team the same day.

Defrancesco was the only one to use oxygen. The expedition had taken no oxygen with them, so a bottle was bought for him from another team. He used it from ABC down to 5300m, where a vehicle picked him up and drove him to the Nepalese border.