원정 개요

BC at Tsangbu yak hut at SW end of Langtang Glacier
ABC further up glacier moraine at start of snow
C1 on SE Ridge (space only for 1 small tent for 2 people)
C2 on SE Ridge (at end of difficult rock part)
High point at C2.

Took time to fix ropes in gully to SE Ridge for C1 and also was snowfall and members had stomach trouble. In some parts of gully 1 meter snow (at BC about 30 cm snow). Beginning of difficulties began just above ABC at 5000m; had not realized before that couloir in so steep (55 degrees, not 45 degrees) and required fixed rope for descent. Thus ran out of rope for fixing above C2. In any case ran out of this; fixed about 1000m of rope (some from France, some bought in Langtang and rest old ropes on mountain). Were too slow in couloir and above in difficult rock and ice. Need one week more and perhaps 1-2 more members (technically difficult for Sherpas).

Ridge itself is safe but BC and ABC exposed to avalanches from couloir. After snowfall there was lot of snow moving down couloir but no big avalanches.