원정 개요

The team's route on the North Face was the same as that established by the Spanish expedition led by Miss Edurne Pasaban, which went east of the Dutch Rib.

Their BC at 4100m consisted of 50 tents, most of which were occupied by Korean television personnel and equipment. The Portuguese climber, Joao Garcia, said he had never seen such a well equipped TV studio anywhere in the world. He added that at this BC was a banner listing the expedition's sponsors; the largest was Korean TV and the total of the sponsors support was seven million dollars.

Miss Oh's team established C1 on 7 April at 5100m and returned to it on the 14th. On the 14th, an avalanche hit some Spaniards in Carlos Pauner's expedition, so on the 15th Oh's members descended unhurt to BC.

On the 17th they went from BC past C1 to pitch C2 at 5600m. The next day they returned to BC to rest. Then there were several days of snowfall that kept them in BC.

On the 22nd they started their push for the summit. They again went directly to C2 and on the 23rd climbed to C3, which they pitched at 6400m.

On the 24th they retreated to C1 because of snowfall and very cold wind. But next day they returned to C2, and on the 26th they climbed from C2 to C4, which they pitched rather low, at 6500m. They fixed 400m of rope between C3 and C4 and above C4 because some of Pasaban's ropes were buried under the new snow.

On the 27th the summit party left C4 at 2 am, when it was dark, cold and very windy. They were Cheong, Oh, Ra with three Sherpas, Dawa Wangchuk, Pema Tshering and Chhiji Nurbu. From their low C4, they needed 13 hours to gain the summit at 3:00 pm. They went to the farthest left (east) bump on the top.

Miss Oh said when she was on the top, "My condition no good." She was extremely cold and snow as being blown about by the wind. When she finally got back to C4 with the other summiters at 9:30 pm, she was very tired and immediately flopped down on her back in her tent and waited for tea to be brought to her.

On the 28th, the three Korean summiters and two of the Sherpa summiters spent the night in C1, while Chhiji Nurbu descended to BC. On the 29th, everyone was in BC. On 1 May, the team flew by helicopter to Pokhara, where they remained for two days before returning to Kathmandu.

Oxygen:

Miss Oh and the three Sherpas used none at all. The two other Korean summiters, who were taking pictures, used in from C4 to the top to but not in C4.

Sherpas:
Chhiji Nurbu, 30/7/80 (15/4/2037), Upper Walung, Makalu-9, Annapurna I X1,
Makalu X1
Dawa Wangchuk, 17/12/72 (3/9/2029), Mathilow, Walung, Makalu-9, Kangch X4,
Everest X3, Dhaulagiri X1, Manaslu X1, etc
Pema Tshering, 16/6/70 (2/3/2027), Mathilow, Walung, Makalu-9, Everest X3,
Dhaulagiri I X2, Kangchenjunga X1, Lhotse X1