원정 개요

The team made a variation of earlier routes on the North Face by going to the left (east of the Dutch Rib and thus avoiding a dangerous big serac at the top of the rib. (The rib route is now "impossible," Pasaban said.) They fixed 1150m of rope from 5800m just below the rib, to C3 at 6400m. All other teams on the face this spring followed this route. The "most dangerous area" on the North Face is now at 5800m from falling seracs tumbling down from the area above it. The team took three days to fix the ropes, sleeping in C2 and working on the route above.

After accomplishing that job, they descended to BC. They then resumed their climb and fixed 150m between C3 and C4 at 7100m to skirt around to the left a very wide crevasse to its narrow point at 7100m.

Before they had occupied C4, Latorre had an accident while skiing from C2 to C1. On 27 March at 5400m, a ligament in his right leg was badly torn when his ski hit a boulder hidden under a snow. He managed to get to BC on his own feet and left BC by helicopter on 29 March.

That left four climbing members to make the team's successful summit bid from C4 on 17 April with three Sherpas: Chicon. Izagirre, Orviz, Pasaban, Jangbu, Mingma Thindu and Pasang Tendi. They were on the top at about 1:30-2:00 pm.

Sherpas:
Jangbu Sherpa, 19/9/79 (3/6/2036), Kharikhola, Solu, Everest X3, Kangch 18/5/09
Mingma Thindu Sherpa, 2/12/82, Makalu vdc
Pasang Tendi Sherpa, 25/2/88, Kharikhola