원정 개요

BC near gompa at Pungen Glacier
Biv1 at deposit
Biv2 near bergschrund
Biv3 at bottom of rock face
Biv4 at snow ridge
Biv5 in last section of small ridge
Biv6 on glacier.

On 28th Sept made deposit on Pungen Glacier at 4800m or 5000m (had no altimeter and only Manaslu trekking map); only left equipment here. 2 days at BC. 1st Oct went to deposit, slept there and took equipment from it and went up "all 7 climbing members together and remained together." Above 6th biv wanted to climb not a ridge but corner of SE Face-E Face. 3 members climbed part of this rock and reached 7200m from where they fell to death near site of 6th biv. Climb immediately abandoned. 3 bodies buried in crevasse. 8th Oct 4 survivors to BC. Route "not so difficult" first part of face to night of dangerous because many ice avalanches. Had good weather and warm-hot sun from 6:00 am. 3-4 more days to surmount rest of face. "It's a real route."

Found black rope (Yugo or Czech expedition's?) just above 3rd biv. This only trace of other climbers.