원정 개요

BC on main trekking route east from Muktinath
C1 on Thorang La.

Sakamoto made two attempts to scale Yakawa Kang. The first attempt was made from High Camp on 6 November. He and Pasang Kaji reached 6200m, just below a glacier, and then turned back because, at 1:30 pm, it was too late to continue. They went back to High Camp.

They needed more fixed rope, so Sakamoto asked his trekking agency, Cosmo Treks, to send 200m of rope and 20 rock pitons. Now they could try again.

They left High Camp on 15 November at 1:50 am. Pasang Kaji fixed from 6100m to the top of the rock band at 6200m, then up a 50-degree glacier of stable ice and fixed this to 6250m (in the first summit bid, he had already fixed rope from 5800m to 6100m). They reached their high point at 6450m at 2:00 pm or a little later; they turned back because again they were late, and also a cold, strong wind was blowing now. So back to High Camp; the climb was finished.

Sakamoto had originally planned to go from Yakawa Kang to a nearby peak south of Yakawa Kang, Khatung Kang, but abandoned that idea because they had no more kerosene and little food. They descended to BC on the 16th and left for Kathmandu via Muktinath on the 17th.

Sakamoto did not plan to leave Nepal immediately. He was leaving Kathmandu on the 25th on a bicycling trip northwest to Rara Lake.

Sherpa:
Pasang Kaji, 24/2/81 (13/11/2037), Dogre [Dhodre], Sotang-6, Solu, Cho Oyu X1,
Everest X1, Manaslu X1