원정 개요

C1 on glacier due north of BC
C2 on glacier west of start of West Ridge
High point at col on border ridge.

The expedition left Kathmandu by road to Besisahar and then trekked to BC via Kato, along the Phu Khola to Phu, then northeast to BC near Phugaon Goth (on HMG Phugau Ghomion map).

Their climbing route went east from C2 on the glacier that is west of the beginning of the West Ridge, then up the southwest slope of the border ridge to a col on the ridge at 6550m between point 6662m and point 6604m on the HMG map. C3 was pitched 200m below the col.

Their high point was reached at the col on 1 November, the day after C3 was established, by all members except Klein (who had stopped in C2 because was not experienced enough to go higher) and their two Sherpas, Chhotemba and Mingma Tshering. They stopped at the col because the Sherpas refused to go any higher along the summit ridge without fixed ropes, and because the wind was blowing at 40 km/hr and the temperature was minus 18 degrees Celsius. The members returned to C2 while the Sherpas went all the way down to BC. The members were in BC the next day.

During the last stage of the climb, one of Jenck's fingers and one of Quatrini's fingers got frostbitten; their condition was not serious, but Grobel now concentrated his attention on caring for them and was not ready to launch a second summit bid. In any case, there was not sufficient time left to try again. The climb was over.

The members returned to Kathmandu on 11 November, but Grobel stayed in the village of Phu to wait for his next expedition, which he was to lead from there to Pokharkan.

Fixed rope: 150m between C2 and C3.

Sherpas:
Chhotemba Sherpa, 29/9/84 he says; 5/10/84 according to Himalayan Database,
Densichhungbu he says; Grobel thinks Walung, Database says Nurbugaon,
all agree Makalu-9, no 8000ers
Mingma Tshering, 42 yrs old, Kharikhola, no 8000ers