원정 개요

BC at Yalung Glacier normal site
C1 above Icefall via Korean route
C2 above rocky section before SW Face
C3 on SW Face after crossing big snow basin
C4 on face
C5 on face
C6 on face
High point at Col.

Made a lot of camps because India's only 8000er Kangchenjunga is forbidden to civilians for security reasons and no members had been so high before. Made 2 summit bids on 13 and 15 May from C6.

1st summit party got to about 8100m and turned back because [Joshi] becoming frostbitten [and due to bad weather].

2nd summit party reached Col between Yalung Kang and main summit (to col after realized could not get all the way to top). 2nd party turned back from Col after reaching their new goal at 8450m, which had been set when frostbite would preclude ascent to summit. Kolwankar's feet especially bad.

1st party - Charuhas Joshi, Ang Kami and Nima Dorje
(only Joshi got frostbite both hands but one hand much better)
2nd party - Kolwankar, Dawa Sherpa (sirdar) and Nima Tamang
(Kolwankar only serious frostbite, had to be carried from BC)

Borole died 17 May from exhaustion and hypothermia. He was in C4 when condition became serious and died a bit above C2 while being helped to descend because of exhaustion; in descent hypothermia complicated his condition.

Oxygen used: Kolwankar at C6 on descent; others used little in C5, C6 and climbing but not found useful and discontinued.

* 9 Nepalese above BC