원정 개요

BC at shore of lake close to East Face [??]
ABC on east face of SW Ridge
C1 150m below SW Ridge
xxx on SW Ridge horizontal section leading to Kalapattar.

On 28 October a party of climbers left C1 to establish C2 at 6400m, but they never got there. Those in the party were Asiyabi, Bates, Havgen, Noonan, White and Williams. Sherpas Pasang Kaji, Tashi Thundu and Palden Namgyal went ahead of the members to fix rope all the way to C2 and arrived at 6350m at 1:00 pm, when Tashi Thundu radioed to Rippel, who was in BC because of his injury that the snow was in dangerous condition: it was waist deep and very unstable -- unable to hold snowbars or crampons; they were going no farther. Rippel immediately radioed Bates, who was at 6200m with the other members of the party, that it was too dangerous to continue the climb and they should come down. The climb was over.

In their descent that day, Williams stopped in C1, Noonan and White in ABC, and Asiyabi, Bates and Havgen at BC. All were together in BC on the 29th.

Other members:

Rippel was with the group who established C1 on 27 October. At 3:00 am on the 28th, he was asleep in his tent when a chunk of ice (50 x 20 cm) fell from the SW Ridge and crashed onto his tent. The impact broke one rib and bruised another. He descended to BC, but was kept informed of progress above C1 by walkie-talkie.

Higgins did not go above BC; he did not acclimatize well and left the expedition on 20 October.

Powys reached C1 on 23 October, then ran out of energy and went no higher.

Sherpas:
Pasang Kaji, 27/5/73 (14/2/2030), Bhakanje-5, Solu
Palden Namgyal, 20/9/72, Phortse, Annapurna I X1, Everest X3, Lhotse X4,
Manaslu X1
Tashi Thundu, 10/4/85, Khumjung, Everest X5