원정 개요

BC at west side Sumna Glacier due east of Nangpai Gotaya.

Before attacking Pasang Lhamu Chuli (aka Jasamba), the team did some acclimatization climbs on two peaks northwest and north of their mountain, point 6295m & point 5820m.

On Pasang Lhamu, they climbed their snow ridge in alpine style, the three members always together. They set out from BC at 7:00 am on 26 October made their first bivouac at 1:00 pm on the ridge at 5800m.

On the 27th at 6:00 am they moved up the ridge to make their second bivouac at 6500m at 2:00 pm. They took two hours more than on the previous day because there were snow mushrooms and the ridge had gotten steeper.

On the 28the they resumed their climb of the ridge again at 6:00 am and had a long day's climb before they bivouacked at 6900. at 5:00 pm. The ridge had become much steeper and more difficult technically. Some sections were covered with ice and 90-degrees steep, there was a 200m rock wall, plus numerous cornices and mushrooms. They were very tired when they made their third bivouac.

They pushed on. They left their last bivouac earlier than before, at 5:00 am on 29 October. An even longer day saw them gain the summit at 2:20 pm and return to their third bivy at 7:00 pm.

They started their final descent at 6:00 am and at last were safely back in BC at 5:00 pm. They rested there a full day before heading down to Lukla and Kathmandu.