원정 개요

BC south of Khangsar just below east of rock
C1 at bottom of spurs running west from NE Ridge.

Avalanche danger from Tarke Kang (1 big one came down), so pitched C1 well to east of it. After 5th Oct put 200m rope up face of N Ridge, then to BC. Deslandres got sick and went to Manang aid post with J Neyret, leaving only 2 climbers. J Neyret returned after 3 days and up to C1 (all 3 climbers) and up onto face to fix more rope and reached 6000m. Then 1 day snowfall. Stayed 1 day in C1 while 30 cm snow fell. Next day 14th Oct to BC to wait out avalanches, 1 day in BC. Deslandres now returned from Manang but not very strong. 17th Oct 4 climbers again to C1. 18th fixed rope to 6100m, 19th rested in C1, 20th fixed rope to 6400m, 21st Deslandres to BC and others rested in C1. 22nd Beatrix and P Neyret left C1 for top but at end of fixed rope P Neyret too tired and cold so he stopped. Beatrix wanted to go on up alone but bag of food fixed on face now fell down face when handled so he down also to C1. Now Beatrix only climber willing to continue but now not interested in solo attempt from C1 (had no Himalayan experience). With no Sherpas and only small team of members were now tired. Face snow and ice 50-60 steepness and difficult.